Congratulations on adopting a basset hound from BROOD! You have adopted a warm and loving friend whose unique personality and interesting character will enrich your life. We would like to provide you with some tips to make the transition for yourself and your basset a little easier.

It will take anywhere from a few days to a few weeks for your basset to settle into his new life with you. During these days of discovery, be patient with him. He will be watching you closely to "figure you out." The following tips are provided to help you recognize problems early and know what to do about them. We hope you find them useful. Please call us if you have any questions or concerns. We are here to help make this transition as smooth as possible.

We at BROOD invite you to become an active participant in our organization and its activities. Every year on the last Saturday in May we hold our annual Fundraiser, our Basset Ramble, a day of fun, food, games and the opportunity to buy great basset collectibles. It's a chance to meet other basset lovers and let your dogs play with hundreds of basset hounds. We also have a fall fundraiser, a fun show in late September.  Check out our website or volunteer now!.

You can help BROOD even more by signing up to become a member.  Membership is $20 a year and may be paid via check or online with Paypal.

List of Topics:

• Basset Grooming and Hygiene
• Feeding
• Housebreaking
• Aggression
• Barking
• Exercise and Handling
• Separation Anxiety
• Obedience Training
• Activities
• References

Basset Grooming and Hygiene

Some bassets develop a "hound odor" as they age. Some people like this smell, comparing it to popcorn or Fritos. Others bathe their hounds regularly to remove the smell. You may use a mild human shampoo for this purpose. Dilute it first in water and spread the shampoo over the dog. Gently massage the shampoo in being careful not to get it in the eyes or ears. Rinse thoroughly. Most dog shampoos are too strong, being designed for "emergency use" only.

Shedding can be handle best with weekly brushings. Use a shedding blade on your basset 2 to 3 times weekly to control shedding.

Bassets have a beautiful long floppy ear (that's probably one of the reasons why you wanted one!). But these ears are prone to yeast and bacterial infections. Yeast infections can turn into serious bacterial infections if not treated. Cleaning out his ears once a week with a commercial ear wash solution (or you can make a solution of 1/3 warm water, 1/3 white vinegar and 1/3 hydrogen peroxide) will keep his ears clean and smelling sweet. Before starting on this program, it is a wise precaution to have his ears checked first to be sure that he doesn't already have an infection.

Bassets should have their nails trimmed regularly. When the nails get too long they become painful and can cause him to walk off balance. If you are uncertain how to do this, ask your veterinarian or dog groomer to show you. Some basset owners use a dremel tool for keeping nails trim. If your basset can deal with the noise and vibration, it's a quick, painless way to trim nails, with practically no danger of bleeding. One technique is to gently place your left leg over the dog, chin on right leg, then, while talking quietly to him, start with the back paws first. Work up to front paws as he gets use to it.

A few bassets have problems with their anal glands, and need to have them "expressed." If you notice him "scooting" on the floor or biting at his rear, then an anal gland problem is indicated. Your veterinarian can demonstrate how this is done. Most people leave this messy task for the vet, but you can learn how to do it yourself. Most bassets do not have this difficulty.

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Feeding

BROOD recommends feeding your basset twice a day. Many rescue dogs are terribly thin and need to be built up, and feeding once a day merely makes them anxious. They may gobble their food, which can lead to bloat, or gastric torsion, a terrible and often fatal condition. If possible, encourage him to eat slowly. Overweight dogs should still be fed twice a day, but in small amounts until the desired weight is achieved. Check with your vet about how much he should weigh; the ideal weight of bassets can vary between 40-65 pounds (or more).

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Housebreaking

As a general rule, the first thing you should do when you get your new basset is to immediately take him to the area you want him to eliminate in. Always take him to this spot. Do not walk - some bassets learn to hold it in order to take a longer walk. Make going to his "spot" a business trip - do not mix "playtime" with "business trips." Teach your basset a signal for wanting to go out. Some dogs sit in front of the door, others scratch or bark. Some even learn to ring a bell hanging on the door handle.

The "Housebroken" Dog

Even though your adopted basset was "housebroken," because of stress and anxiety, he can have accidents. Going into a new house can be stressful even to the most "laid-back" of bassets. Also, dogs do not always generalize, i.e., he may be housebroken to one household but not necessarily to another. Therefore, you should be prepared for an accident. Do not let your new friend have full run of the house until you've gotten to know each other and learned to trust one another. Always keep him confined to an area where you can monitor his behavior, and should he have an accident, be prepared to correct immediately. Corrections should always come during the infraction, not afterwards. DO NOT HIT OR STRIKE. Distract him by sharply saying NO! NO! or shaking a can with pennies in it, or clapping your hands, then get him immediately outside. When he eliminates, PRAISE him (you can even give him a treat). If you can't monitor the dog, confine him to a crate or a room, where accidents won't matter. You should always go out with your new basset and praise when he eliminates outside (or in what ever spot you'd like him to go in). Establishing an eating, sleeping and exercising schedule will help get your new basset on the right track and get his inner clock on a timetable so that accidents don't happen.

If you have adopted an un-housebroken basset than you must treat him as you would an 8 week old puppy (except that he will have better bladder control than an 8 week old puppy).

This is a very special elimination problem and is driven by a different stimulus from eliminating for relief. Females and males will mark, but it is most commonly seen in the un-neutered or a recently neutered male. It can take two to three months for a male's testosterone levels to drop and for him to lose his desire to mark territory. Much depends on the age of the male when he was neutered. Other environmental elements are also a factor. If you have or had other dogs in the house that have had accidents, the new boy (or female) may want to make a "statement." If necessary, for several days, attach the dog to you with a lease so that the second he attempts to mark you can catch him at it and correct (see above). The behavior should subside as he gets more comfortable with your household and he learns from you that marking isn't desirable. Remember he won't necessarily generalize and correcting for eliminating does not always mean he'll understand that he's not suppose to mark either!)

You should consult your veterinarian for a possible health problem if soiling in the house persists. Unintentional soiling may occur if your dog has an infection or worms. Therefore you should always rule these out before embarking on a housebreaking campaign.

If you have an accident (and you will), the best treatment is to clean it up with a product that has enzymes to destroy the urine odor. Many basset owners recommend Nature's Miracle, which can be purchased through mail order catalogs or from pet stores. Another "home grown" treatment is a solution of white vinegar and water (1:3 ratio). First soak up as much of the urine as possible, then soak the spot with the Nature's Miracle or vinegar and water solution. Let sit for a few minutes and then soak up the liquid. Repeat if necessary.

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Aggression

If for any reason, your basset growls, snaps or bites another human or dog, you need to consider this behavior as unacceptable behavior. Even if the behavior was totally understandable (e.g., he bit because someone tried to take his food away), it should not be considered acceptable and you need to take immediate steps to address this problem.

Aggression problems are usually divided into two categories, dominance and fear:

• Dominance - The dog may growl/bite because you have done something that HE believes is not proper behavior for someone of your rank. That is, he does not consider your pack rank higher than his! This behavior is normal in dogs that have strong dominance tendencies. Dominance aggression is usually successfully treated with basic obedience training. Basically, you must establish yourself as the leader and an obedience course will normally do that. It is dominance aggression that is usually behind problems with children. Dogs often don't see children as higher ranking in the pack and will growl or snap at a child if they perceive that the child is infringing on their rights. This is why small children should never be left unattended with dogs.
• Fear - Even a sweet submissive dog is capable of biting if he is fearful and can not escape the situation that is causing his fear. Many believe that fear aggression is a far more difficult form of aggression to treat because it can happen without warning (e.g., growling). The dog just suddenly lashes out and usually the person being bit doesn't know why it happened. You will see fear aggression most commonly in dogs that have been abused or mistreated. They are fearful of being hit or beaten. They are usually very insecure and will cower at your raised voice or if you make a movement that looks as if you are going to strike them. Take the behavior seriously for fear aggression requires desensitizing the dog to whatever he fears and requires great patience on the part of the owner.

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Barking

First, barking is common for a new dog that is unsure and bewildered by what has been happening to him. When they want something, dogs will experiment with various behaviors to see if any of them work. They quickly discover that barking works very well with humans. Barking when alone is commonly called "request barking." To summarize how to get rid of it: Don't let the dog shadow you around so much when you're at home. Shut him in various rooms away from you to practice "semi-absences." Ignore any barking which ensues (ignoring is more powerful than a reprimand). If you try for the quick fix of a reprimand it could back fire. Remember that he's barking to get you back: with some dogs, a reprimand is better than nothing, so you may be rewarding him.

Practice zillions of brief absences every day. Go out and come back in after a few seconds over and over again to desensitize him to your departures. Do it in a matter of fact way, ignoring the dog whatever he does. Using a routine phrase every time you leave such as "see you later," or "puppy stay home," is a good way to teach him that you'll be returning. Then do outings of 10 seconds, 30 seconds, 1 minute, 10 minutes etc. Mix it up. Dogs need abundant proof that your departure does not predict a traumatically long period of isolation. Keep all your departures and arrivals low key. Never make an entrance when the dog is barking. Wait for a 30 second lull. Increase mental stimulation by leaving him toys to play with (chew toys are the best because stress normally can be relieved by chewing).

For more information about this and many other forms of nuisance behavior, BROOD highly recommends the book, "The Culture Clash" by Jean Donaldson. You can get it through Amazon.com for about $15. The above discussion comes from her book.

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Exercise and Handling

Of course you should take your new friend for walks and handle him. We give every new adopter background on the dog's temperament and disposition. The foster home he came from can also give you information about your basset's likes and dislikes. But until he becomes bonded and secure in your household there are precautions you should take.

• Never strike a basset hound. They are sensitive souls, and respond well to gentle correction. They don't always understand what you want, and mistakes they make should be handled gently. In addition, many Rescue bassets have been brutally treated in the past. Any corporal punishment (even with a rolled up newspaper) may increase the risk of fear aggression. Use acceptable obedience training methods of discipline instead.
• Basset hounds were developed in France in the Middle Ages, and were bred for hunting badger, rabbit, and other game. They are slow moving (for a dog) and able to penetrate the thickest brush with ease. Their hunting heritage makes it imperative that you keep your basset confined to a leash or in a well-fenced yard. Unlike retrievers and dogs bred to be guardians, your basset will follow his nose wherever it takes him. Being independent thinkers, they may well NOT return at your command. Always walk him on a leash, no matter how attached he seems to be to you. It only takes one squirrel, cat or rabbit to cause him to take off (we had a basset that would take off after crickets!) Many bassets end up in Rescue because they were strays. We strongly recommend keeping a buckle (not choke) collar with ID tags on your dog at all times or better yet, get him tattooed.
• Never let him run up to children or let children play with him without your supervision. If you have children, don't let them play with him unattended. Be careful especially with children grabbing the dog's neck or trying to kiss it on the face. This can be a threatening move to a dog and he may bite. Until you get to know your new basset better, it is recommended you don't let your children walk or play with him without strict supervision.
• If you are expecting a baby, here are some tips on how to introduce your basset to the new baby. Prior to bring the new baby home, introduce your basset to him by bringing home a blanket with the new baby's scent on it. Allow your basset to smell baby and the babies things. Pet your basset, if they want attention while you are holding the baby. Attempts at establishing dominance (humping or mounting) begin when your child begins toddling. Always supervise any activity where the child and dog are together. Don't allow your child to tease, chase, pull ears or tail, or ride your basset. Always give your basset a "safe place" that is separate from the noise and commotion.
• Watch him carefully around other dogs. If you see signs of aggression (growling or the hair raising up on the back), turn him around and break his eye contact with the other dog. Then get him away. Don't try to "calm" him by petting him or talking to him in a soothing tone of voice. Just move him away. By trying to calm him or sooth him by petting, you are inadvertently rewarding him for the aggression.
• If you are going to groom him yourself, handle him carefully (especially the feet and ears) in the beginning. Keep treats on hand to reward him for good behavior while you trim toenails or clean ears. Talk to him in a soothing and calm voice while you work with him. Notice any attempts by him to grab your hand or bite. Dogs are often nervous about their ears and feet and don't yet trust you not to hurt them. It takes time to desensitize them and gain their trust. To desensitize him, do a little at a time and always praise good behavior.
• Keep your basset away from swimming pools unless he is under your direct supervision. They are really bad swimmers.

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Separation Anxiety

This is a very common problem with newly adopted dogs, especially those who came from a shelter. They can be confused, frightened, and insecure. Coming into a new home means trying to regain their equilibrium and understand the "new" rules. This often leads to the "Velcro" dog syndrome. Your new basset will literally velcro himself to you. The minute you go out of sight he begins to whine, cry, bark etc. In severe cases the dog eliminates and becomes destructive. In most cases, time and patience resolve the problem. Here are some things you can do to allay the anxiety:

• If he feels comfortable, secure and safe in a crate, you can crate him when you leave. Try putting something that smells like you in the crate with him along with chew toys. If, however, he panics in close quarters, then crating can make matters worse.
• Most bassets respond well to a four-legged pal as a companion and playmate.
• Make his environment more stimulating or entertaining. To help engage his mind and body, frequently change the array of toys you leave out.
• Totally withdraw attention from him 15 minutes before leaving and 15 minutes after you come home. Reason: the minutes preceding a departure and those following a return home are emotional catalysts for dogs with separation anxiety. The more fuss you make about coming and going, the more anxiety you instill in the dog.

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Obedience Training

BROOD strongly recommends you take your new basset through a basic obedience course. The course will help you to "bond" with your new friend and give him confidence in you as the "leader" of the pack. Also, if you have any behavior problems, you can get expert advice on how to correct them. An obedience class is your best insurance against having a behavior problem.

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Activities

Many people participate in enjoyable activities with their bassets. These activities include tracking, agility, and obedience.  Supporting BROOD and other basset hound rescue organizations by participating in their fundraising events is another popular activity.  Many localities also have Fun Dog Shows put on by local shelters, humane societies, SPCA and dog clubs.

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References

• The Basset Hound, by Barbara Wicklund (basic basset care and training)
• The Basset Hound Owner's Survival Guide, by Diane Morgan (the basset personality is described by basset owners)
• The Culture Clash, by Jean Donaldson (basic information on training and correcting behavior problems through operant conditioning)
• The Dog Who Loved Too Much, by Dr. Nicholas Dodson (behavior problems in dogs and their solutions)
• The Second Hand Dog, by Carol Benjamin (what you can expect when adopting an adult dog)
• The Canine Good Citizen, Every Dog Can Be One, by Volhard. (how to prepare for and get the AKC Canine Good Citizenship Certificate)
• The Body Language and Emotion of Dogs, by Myrna Milani (advanced reading for owners of dogs exhibiting aggression)
• Any of a number of books/tapes by Matthew Margolis

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